I recently returned from South India, traveling around Kerala and Tamilnadu in a Toyota van with Dileep, our driver, and my longtime companion who turned 80 on the trip. Before meeting with Dileep and beginning our journey, we checked into Kairali Ayurvedic Health Resort and experienced 7 days of Panchakarma treatments. Dr. Rajeev gave a pretty thorough exam, wrote up an evaluation and prescription of treatments including a daily organic vegetarian diet, a continuation of Trifala and Chyawanprash and he added Abhayaristha 30 ml twice daily, plus lots of drinking water which was a special concoction of warm water steeped in a variety of herbs and spices with a peppery taste. Each day began with an hour of yoga practice followed by a one hour treatment in the morning (each treatment took place on a Droni table and involved 2 therapists) then breakfast, free time (walking, swimming, more yoga, cycling around the countryside, lots of rest), then lunch followed by rest or activity, an afternoon treatment, a short period of time before meditation, a late dinner and then to bed. The place was absolutely magical. The treatments varied daily and included Abhyangam (general massage), Sirodhara (nonstop stream of medicated oil, herbal concoction, milk or other materials), Elakizhi (herbal poultices, whole body massage), Pizhichil (whole body and head prescribed oil massage with continuous slow and light hand pressure), Navarakizhi (whole body massage with small linen bags filled with cooked Navara rice cooked in cow's milk and mixed with herbs and oils), Nasyam (after certain processes, exact doses of oils are poured into the nostrils as the patient inhales deeply), Netradhara (eye therapy with medicated oils), and much more. Most therapies were followed by time in a hot steam box followed by an exfoliating shower, then a brief meeting with the doctor and his assistant over hot tea. Weight, blood pressure and various measurements were taken, feedback solicited, modifications made. For example, because I'm one of the lucky few who have no allergies, the administration of medicated oil into the nostrils was only done once, and because the doctor didn't like the way my eyes got all red and bloodshot after having cups and cups of oil poured over them (try keeping your eyes open for that!), he suspended that treatment. I was never sure what was coming next which added to the deliciousness of it all. Learning to totally relax while your therapist administers an enema, or pounds your body with bags of cooked rice, or suddenly finding yourself being soaked in buttermilk can be challenging, but I loved the experience. Many people return often. One of my favorite friends was a woman from Trinidad who had worked in many countries, including Kenya and Tanzania, with abused and dis-empowered women (including the horrific forced practice of "circumcision" which is really a brutal mutilation of the female genitalia), and is currently based in NYC and has been with the United Nations for many years. For her, the treatments were all about down time and destressing from a high pressure job as well as weight reduction. Another friend was the 25 year old son of a businessman who needed to see some maturity in his only son (and weight reduction). People from all over would suddenly appear for brief treatments, some to just relax, some after pilgrimages or ashram stays in the North. For me, 7 days was plenty, but 14 or 28 days are most recommended, but not many people can do this.
One day I was walking on the road towards the village when a small, crippled dog suddenly appeared underfoot and caused me to nearly fall. He was so sweet and determined to be petted. I later learned that a woman from Germany who was staying at the resort after hip replacement and multiple bypass surgery and who had a habit of cycling throughout the countryside despite doctors order to the contrary, had found a little dog that had been crushed by a car and lay dying in the road. She insisited that Dr. Rajeev, an Ayurvedic doctor and not a vet, come immediately to help her rescue the dog. I'm told she cried for days while holding the dog and nursing him back to health. There is a "canteen" across the street from the resort where employees gather before and after work, and this little crippled dog that demanded so much of my attention had been promised a lifetime of care by the employees of the resort.
On the day of our departure, there was significant protesting going on in Palakkad after a brutal attack in which one woman was killed (political stuff I'm told). Our driver made it through early, but our departure was waylaid until the crowds dispersed late in the day. And so began sixteen days of travel throughout South India, from Palakkad to Cochin, Munnar, Alleppey, Kumarakom, Periyar, Madurai, Trichy, Tanjore, Mahabalipuram (aka Mamallapuram) to Chennai.
